Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Sep 2012 - St Petersburg, Venice of the North

After 2 yrs of planning, I was finally landing in St Petersburg about 9 pm to start my exciting 2 weeks here  and in Moscow.   My Russian friend from my south American trip, Sergey had a week off and was wonderful enough to meet me at the airport, get me to my hotel in a taxi , and then be my Russian guide for the whole week in Spb.  The lst full day did not start early as I slept in after the long trip.   We then took a bus from the nearly new Marriott Courtyard about 1 mile into the city center and Nevsky Prospect, the famous main shopping boulevard.  Walking to the main rail station, I bought the tickets for the high speed bullet train to Moscow next Wed.  The several high speed trains each day usually are sold out.    It was fun to window shop and see some of the high end stores  and interesting architecture of the buildings, such as the Singer Building.   Spb is a classic European city with no high rise buildings . It was extremely clean .   We walked by the landmark Russian Orthodox, and famous onion domed Church of Spilled Blood, toured the huge Palace Square with the former Catherine the Great's Winter Palace ( now the Hermitage Museum ) and walked the river bank with its wonderful views.   A fun lunch at a small cafe was where I was  introduced to Okroska, a cold Russian soup and also some small pancakes filled with meat and diced vegetables.  The  towering Gold Dome of St. Isaac's Cathedral is the tallest point in the city, and it is set in a lovely park at the Neva River's edge.  I returned to the hotel, and then later that evening, I got to enjoy the Swan Lake ballet in the Grand Old Ballet building.  The world famous home of the Kirov ballet in the Mariinskiy building was being rebuilt.   All in all it was a busy and fun lst full day , my 2nd day in Spb.
Day 3 started with a bus ride to the Sadovaya Metro 1 station and a ride to the rivers edge Admiralty stop. There we got off and walked to board a hydrofoil for the hour boat ride out into the Gulf of Finland and across to the incredible  Peterhof Palace on the oceans edge west of Spb.  The 5 metro lines, serving 2 million passengers a day, are the worlds deepest metro lines. They are buried over 300 feet deep near the river.  The speedy escalators that take one  up and down to the lines are something to experience.  Peterhof Palace and grounds are called by many to rival or top Versailles,  and I can see why.  I have never seen anything like the amount of gold plating on the fountains, the statues and elsewhere throughout the wonderful grounds.  The grand canal from the sea to the palace center and grand entrance ends in what is called the "Golden Cascades".  The opulence within the palace was stunning.  I toured the palace and also walked the immense grounds before exiting out the back side of the grounds to a bus.  Then it was back to the red line metro  5 stops, the blue line metro 1 stop and a short bus ride back to the hotel.  Last night I had a wonderful stroganoff and borscht and this night I tried Russian Pelmeni.   I always try local dishes when traveling.
Day 4  was  a half day in the Hermitage Museum.   One could spend days inside what is billed as 2nd only to Paris's Louve as the worlds top museum.  The art and paintings by the Dutch and French masters had to be seen to be believed.  That afternoon, Sergey led me back to St Isaacs  where we climbed to the very top for the city view.  The 300 step climb to near the top reminded me of climbing to the top of St Peters in Rome.    This church is the 3rd largest domed cathedral in the world, and the view from the top is the best in Spb.
Sunday we took  an outing southwest of Spb into the countryside to Pushkin and the opulent , gilded magnificence of the Tsar's Palaces and lovely surrounding grounds.   Thanks again to Sergey  the trip was easy. We took the bus to the metro and out to the end of the line, where we boarded another bus out into the countryside to Pushkin and the wonders there.  Clearly the Catherine's Palace was the most gilded and ornate of all.   We toured the incredible palace interior, then walked around the large lake in the Versailles sized park like grounds before touring the smaller Alexander Palace .  After a peek at the Pushkin Lycee, we returned to Spb.   That night we went to a wonderful night of Russian folk dancing that included cossack dancing .  Afterwards  our  enjoyable  evening was extended with a late evening stop at the New Holland center park, plaza, open space and beer garden on the canal bank.  Sergey told me not long ago this was an "off  limits" military base.  How times change !
The last two days in Spb were spent with one day across the river , touring St Peter and Paul's Cathedral and grounds area on the island across from the Hermitage.  The city views were wonderful.  Then we walked over to Vasilievsky Island to see the sites, walked through the sprawling  Spb  State University and finally back across the bridge to the metro and bus ride back to the hotel.   I was impressed with the cleanliness of the city, the friendliness of the people, the common use of English signs along side the Russian signs in the tourist places and Hermitage Museum, and finally the lack of nearly any visable police or military presence .  There seemed to be far fewer police in view than in any other city I have been in throughout Europe.  However, I felt very safe the entire time.
The final full day was spent downtown again and included another photo trip to the Church of the Spilled Blood.   That is a stunning visual sight , with its unique architecture and appearance.  We also took the metro  to the far south of Spb to see the Park Pobedy or victory park. The park had lots of construction going on and was disappointing.  While we were far south, we also toured the unique, candy stripped Chesme Church. Finally, a last dinner in Spb, a last overnight, and then Wed  we were off to the main rail station and the high speed bullet train across Russia to Moscow.
The pictures are below and can be seen by scrolling below from here:
Art in huge Palace Square in front of Hermitage Museum or old Winter Palace

view across  Palace Square

St Peter and Pauls Cathedral across river from Hermitage

Historic old Singer Building  on Nevsky Prospect

Magnificent Church of Spilled Blood near city center on one of the Spb canals

Another view from rear of Church of Spilled Blood

Chesme Church and its facinating architecture and candy cane  appearance

Peterhof and the guilded fountains of the Golden Staircase in front of main entrance

Enjoying the incredible view of Peterhof

View from palace entrance overlooking  Golden Staircase and canal into Gulf of Finland

Golden spires at end of main palace

View of Peterhof's grandeur from grounds behind palace

A view of city after climbing the 300 steps to top of  St Isaac's  dome.

St Isaac's towering above rivers edge park

view of Hermitage near main entrance

One of the many world famous original statues and paintings in the Hermitage

one of the many Rembrant paintings in the Hermitage

A knights and armour room within the Hermitage

another of the original  mostly Dutch and French paintings

View from within of the vast central gardens and courtyard of the Hermitage

an example of the guilded opulence of some of the Hermitage rooms displays

Famous  painting 

View of vast Palace Square from within Hermitage or Winter Palace

Stunning scene of Catherine's Palace and grounds in Tsar Palace Park and complex in Pushkin

A view showing the immense size of the Catherine's Palace

The unbelievable Grand Ballroom and all of its  guilded interior

Have you ever seen so much gold?   I felt underdressed :-)

Catherine's Room in her grand palace

one more of the nearly endless opulent golden rooms of the grand palace

View across the front of palace out towards the lake and vast park surrounding palace

another view of the amazing palace and its wonderful grounds

view at far end of good sized lake in the huge park like grounds of the palace

The much smaller but still elegant  Alexander's Palace

land mark monument at edge of river in Spb on Vasilevskiy Island 

View of  St Peter and Pauls  Cathedral from bridge over Neva River

view looking back towards Hermitage across river

another view from island itself of the St Peter and Pauls 

View within the cathedral being refurbished inside and out

Burial casket of the tsars family

more of the Tsar family burial caskets

another casket of the Tsars

View of the St Peter and Paul Cathedral from the front showing  reconstruction 

Cruiser Aurora, that signaled the start of the 1917 Russian Revolution  





Sunday, January 6, 2013

Sep 2012 - Amazing Moscow

Wed, Sep 12   I took the ultra modern high speed train from St Petersburg to Moscow .  It was a classy trip, with soft music and announcements in both Russian and English.  Once outside the Spb metro area, the country side was  rural, and very flat, with only a few scattered towns , which looked run down and unlike the huge, prosperous appearing Spb and Moscow metro areas.  Arriving in Moscow at 6 pm , the peak of the rush hour was intimidating for sure.  I don't know how I would have managed the metro from the main rail station 4 stops to the city center without my Russian friend , Sergey.  Arriving near the Kremlin, we then walked about  6 blocks to my hotel where Sergey left me .  He lots of work to do while in Moscow and his family lived there.
Thursday I took a walking tour of the nearby city center, Red Square and all the incredible buildings and sights.  The city was very clean everywhere I went.  I was amazed at the beautiful grounds surrounding the Kremlin , and the huge, 4 story ultra modern high end shopping center that was built underground below the main park plaza.   It seemed that there were people everywhere, day and night.  That afternoon, Sergey joined me for another walking tour the length of the famous pedestrian  Arbat Ulitsa. We stopped for a couple beers and snacks at a sidewalk cafe in the warm 75 F  sunshine.  Then on past the towering old Soviet Foreign Ministry to the Moscow River. There we saw Moscow's biggest church, the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, crossed to Russia's largest old chocolate factory, and had cold pear cider at a charming cafe overlooking the river , again in the sunshine. That evening I got to attend the Tchaikovsky opera, Eugene Onegin  in the world famous Tchaikovsky Hall with the Russian National Symphony Orchestra and guest soloists. It was an unforgettable experience.
Friday, I was on my own in the morning and then walked the nearby city again, watching the "Changing the guard " at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier just outside the Kremlin.  That night I took a metro ride to the Kievskaya  station and  a visit to the huge, ultra modern shopping center mall.  It was jammed with Russians of all ages, even after 10 pm.  The grocery center downstairs was as large and well filled as any in the US.
The rest of the week flew by, with  a half day inside the Kremlin walls on a walking tour, shopping for a few items to take home from the many little kiosks outside the Kremlin,  a wonderful  2 hour boat trip down the Moscow River,  a  half day inside the huge Russian State Historical Museum on Red Square, a couple hours in the famous Pushkin State Art Museum, and a half day wandering the huge, people friendly and well known Gorky Park.  I often used the wonderful Russian Metro system, which has many beautiful stations, 13 interconnected lines, and  serves 5 million riders a day in Moscow at a ticket cost of only about $0.75 cents. Then Wed mid day, I took a taxi to the airport express station to catch the red line train out to the now modern Sheremetyevo airport.  I then caught my afternoon flight to Paris and a last overnight after my wonderful and unforgettable  2 weeks in Russia.
I will group the Moscow pictures as to subject and caption.   Please scroll below for pictures.


Russian Rail bullet high speed train from St Petersburg to Moscow

Entrance to Red Square,  Resurrection Gate

Kazan Cathedral just inside  Resurrection Gate in Red Square

incredible St Basils  Cathedral at end of Red Square

a view inside landmark GUM  Department store

Beautiful park and plaza above underground huge 4 story modern shopping mall 

View to north along Moscow River to Kremlin in center

Cathedral of Christ the Savior on Moscow River, Moscow's largest

Russian friend , Sergey waiting for our hard cold pear cider  & enjoying  the sunny Moscow afternoon

Art enjoying the cold cider at end of busy afternoon walking tour.


One of many beautiful fountains on park like plaza near Kremlin walls

Street scene just outside Red Square gate, with statue of Marshall Zhukov  on Horseback 

About to enter Red Square through Resurrection Gate

Another view of St Basils from within Red Square

view out window of St Basils looking length of Red Square with Kremlin to the left 

scene within St  Basil  Cathedral

Looking up inside one of  St Basils towers

St Basils from  far or Moscow River side

World famous  Bolshoy Theatre on  theatre square near Red Square

surreal scene of Red Square at night and the GUM Department store

Another view of GUM  Dept store lights on Red  Square at night


view of  stunning St Basils at night

looking across Red Square with Kremlin on left and  State Historical Museum in  far center

Resurrection Gate into Red Square at night

view of  Red Square size with Kremlin walls on right

Historic landmark of State Historical Museum at one end of  Red Square

10 pm scene on Red Square with GUM Dept store on left and Kremlin on right

Lenin's tomb at base of Kremlin walls near mid point of Red Square

On Red Square, the famous Savior's or clock tower, one of the many Kremlin wall towers

view in front of St Basils  after 10 pm


beautiful grounds and flowers surrounding Kremlin walls

about to enter Kremlin at the Trinity entry gate.

Cathedral of the Assumption within Kremlin

Church of the 12 Apostles inside Kremlin

Famous immense  Tsar's cannon

Cathedral of the Assumption within Kremlin grounds

Ivan the Great Bell Tower

view of Moscow River from within Kremlin grounds


view towards  exit gate with Kremlin State Armoury to right

Russia's largest chocolate factory on Moscow River south of Kremlin

towering monument to Peter the Great on Moscow River

View south along Moscow River and Gorky Park

another view further south on Moscow River showing one of the many super  high new skyscraper towers.


Even more modern towers including 1st and 2nd tallest towers in Europe

more new tall tower buildings 

one of the elegant old covered pedestrian bridges over Moscow River at Kievskaya  center

elaborate landscaping on Moscow River bank at Kievskaya

crowded area between Kievskaya Metro station  exit and giant, modern, multistory shopping mall


Graceful, attractive entrance to the Pushkin Art Museum

Egyptian Hall within the Pushkin Museum

one of the countless , impressive statue exhibits within the Pushkin Museum

one of the many impressive, elegant statue display halls inside the Pushkin


The giant statue of  "David"

about to cross river and walk far bank past Peter the Great monument for an afternoon in Gorky Park

Main entrance monument into historic Gorky Park

one of several areas of giant inflated cushions for the people to relax on in Gorky Park

lst class out door ping pong area with many people playing at midday. 

one of many lovely pond and fountain areas in Gorky Park

another different type of cushion relaxation area for Gorky Park patrons

a full sized mock up of the Russian Space shuttle that never flew in Gorky Park

a big multi court beach volley ball area, and good bye to wonderful old Gorky Park and my last afternoon walk back to hotel.