Monday, August 27, 2012

January 2011 Quito and Amazon jungle .
  Photos will folow the trip narrative.   Having flown into the 10,000 foot high single runway airport in the heart of Quito, we were met and taken by  car to a modern Swiss hotel in downtown Quito.   The next day was really fun, with an English speaking guide, car and driver.  We toured the Historic Center of old Quito on foot, seeing the Government Presidential palace, Quito Cathedral, Gothic Basilica, landmark 17th century San Francisco Church, and the old main tourist areas. The interiors and ceilings of the cathedral and Basillica were amazing. Then we were taken up to the El Panicillo view point and monument overlooking the city.  The big Pichincha volcano was towering up 4783 meters high(15,000 ft ) over the city.  Further to the south and in the distance looms the spectacular, nearly 6000 meter volcano, Cotopaxi, Ecuador's highest. We then had an hours car ride out to the Equator and another wonderful guide with several fun experiments  for us to try right astride the equator.  I have pictures with one foot  of mine in each hemisphere.   The day concluded  with us being dropped off near the base station of Quitos long cable car lift, which we then took high onto the shoulder of Pichincha to 13,300 ft.  There we looked down to the entire city far below.  We hiked a ridge trail that overlooked the city with many great views.  Then it was back to our hotel and dinner after an extremely full and interesting day.
The next day we were up at 4:30 am for a 5 am pick up and ride to the airport.  We then took a plane ride up over the Andes and out to the upper Amazon jungle basin to the little oil rush boom town of Coca.    A taxi ride through the bustling streets to the river bank brought us to our boat and a fast ride down the big Napo river.  The  river was wide, fast, muddy, and it wound through unbroken jungle and flat terrain on both sides as far as the eye could see.  Only an occasional giant Cebo tree would stand far above the surrounding jungle. After about a 3 hour boat ride down the river , we pulled into a small side stream and  landing. There we were transferred into big canoe like craft that were then paddled up the brackish back water stream through the dense jungle for 2 hours to the lake and our  Napo Wilderness Lodge.  Enroute we stopped and went ashore to spot a big herd of the Javelinas or wild pigs, who stampeded away when we got close.  Overhead we saw spider monkeys in the trees in two places.
The next 4 days were unforgettable!   We had both day and night hikes in the jungle, a morning hike with a  half day stay up near the top of a giant Cebo tree on a platform nearly 200 feet above the jungle floor.  We bird watched and saw  Macaws, Toucans, and many other birds of the jungle. There were  both day and night guided canoe rides around the lake and its side channels, and we saw many caymans and water birds.   One highlight was a long hike back to the Napo River, a boat ride downstream, and then side hikes to view dozens of  big green parrots at a famous salt lick.  A second salt lick area was where small parrots and parakeets usually flocked each day.  The  thatched bungalows  and main open air dining room and bar looked like something out of a movie set.  It was hard to believe that I was actually on the edge of the lake in the remote Amazon jungle.   We then had another long canoe ride down the back water stream to the Napo river and the boat ride back up to Coca .  There the plane flew us back to an over night in Quito. The next morning we had another early morning flight over to Guayaquil and then far out into the Pacific to the Galapagos and the next leg of this unforgettable South American adventure.
Huge Gothic Basilica in old central Quito

Central Quito- Plaza to Independence  in Old city

Plaza in front of Gothic Basilica

Plaza to Independence with Government Palace to right and  historic Quito Cathedral in back

front facade of Government Presidential Palace

Historic Quito Cathedral with incredible interior 

group of school children anxiously awaiting entrance to Presidential  Palace

Famous San Francisco church

El Panicillo  and statue to Virgin of Quito and viewpoint at south  edge of city 

view of city of Quito from El Panicillo view point on south edge of   city

ART straddling the exact true Equator 

Fun Equador guide challenging us to balance egg  on exact Equator

ART balancing egg !

The old  French incorrectly located Equator and the  park and monument

Quito from top of cable car up Pichincha Volcano .  We hiked from  the lift top at 13,300 up to about  14,000 ft.

another view of Quito from our hike to 14,000 of the 15,000 ft volcano

Our VIP airlines turbo prop from Quito over the  Andes to Coca and the Amazon basin 

Boat landing at Coca & start of boat trip down Napo river , an Amazon main tributary
scene from river boat on big dirty Amazon river tributary 
arriving at rivers edge and jumping off point for long canoe ride up  jungle back water stream to Napo jungle lodge

Jungle guides paddling us up brackish stream into heart of Amazon jungle

arriving across lake to Napo wilderness jungle lodge

Map of cabins and main buildings in Napo Lodge complex

Art relaxing in one of the cabins

View from highest tower over lodge and cabins towards lake

another view from highest tower to lst canoe headed out for jungle exploration.

a medium sized Cayman  at the edge of the lake

Guide and travel companion Sergey in lead behind guide on hike to treetop bird watching tower

The 200 ft high metal stairs tower to viewing platform in top of giant Cebo tree 

our guide and two of our party in tree top above jungle

our 2 guides at base of   huge , 200 ft high Cebo tree.

our guide showing off a slender vine snake 

The salt lick where hundreds of small parrots usually gather

enjoying a  lunch break at the Napo edge camp after a hike from lodge and  parrot viewing. 

Sergey enjoying the short after lunch break 

Dinner at the Napo  lodge open air dining room

Sergey following guide at start of spooky  night hike into jungle  near end of trip

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Jan 2011 South America Peru

My trip of a lifetime started with a long flight from Anchorage to NYC where I caught my LAN flight nonstop to Lima , Peru on Jan 21, 2011.   An overnight in the hotel at the Lima airport and an early flight to Cuzco the next morning.   That lst day was a walking tour of the old city, with its Inca  remains of earlier times.    The next day, I had a wonderful guided tour by car high into the mountains above Cuzco and the many Inca ruins.   The alpacas and llamas roamed free in many areas.  We stopped at an artisans center and I bought an alpaca scarf and Peruvian ski hat.
Day 4 and an early start by bus to Ollantaytambo, where we caught the train to wind down the incredible Urubamba canyon at the side of the roaring river  to  a stop for us to leave the train at Km 104.  With a guide we headed up for the two day short Inca Trek to the mountain ridge far above and  a traverse to the back of Machu Picchu.   The weather was rainy and cloudy, but  from the Sun Gate we could see down into the stunning lost city of Machu Picchu.  Late in the afternoon after arrival we hiked through the lost city.   Then it was by bus down the 2500 ft nearly vertical road into Agua Calientes , the frontier like little town on the river below Macchu Picchu  and at the end of the railroad.   A nice small hotel and hot meal and to bed for a 5am wake up.  We had wanted to climb Huayna Picchu, but the park  had a limit of  200 climbers at 8 am and 200 at  11 am.   So, standing in line in  a pouring rain and darkness shortly after 5 am, we got the  4th bus with about 40 in each bus.  Unfortunately  during the night, a couple hundred had hiked up the muddy road in the rain and dark up the nearly 3000 feet from Aguas Calientes, and so we narrowly missed getting any of the coveted 200 climbing permits for either of the two morning times.   So we  then toured all of the amazing  lost city.   In the Afternoon we hiked around the cliff like trail cut into the vertical face above the river to an ancient Inca signaling position or place.  Ropes helped secure us across some of the faces.  Then a bus ride down the mountain again.  The town was like a small wild west frontier town, with back packers, climbers, tourists and a truly unique scene.  I bought a silver necklace and the Inca emblem  in the big market at the train station.  Then we took the  train ride back up the Urubamba river canyon to Ollantaytambo, where a late day bus took us back to the same hotel in Cuzco.   It was an  early start the following morning, with an airplane ride back to Lima and the connection on to Quito in Equador.     Both  Cuzco and  Quito were  over 10,000 feet high with  a single airport runway and the airport right in the  heart of the two cities.  lst set of trip pictures follows now:
Cuzco's central plaza
Cuzco Cathedral on central plaza

Original Inca foundation section under Cuzco Palace

Palace courtyard

Palace surrounding grounds and Cuzco and mountains

4  main Inca ruins in Cuzco area

about to enter vast Saqsaywaman Inca ruins

Friendly Alpaca and Art in Saqsaywaman grounds

immense stones Inca's brought for miles to this site

Sergry and our wonderful Peruvian guide

Our guide at Inca site above Cuzco in background in valley below

Rail line from Cuzco to  Machu Picchu


raging Urubamba River in gorge route to Machu Picchu

thousands foot walls of Urubamba River canyon

Peruvian indian woman at train side enroute

Chachabamba Inca Ruins at start of short Inca Trail 2 day hike to Machu Picchu

In Chachabamba Inca ruins on Inca Trail

Art within Chachabamba ruins courtyard 

a remaining section of original Inca trail

Peruvian guide with us on Inca Trail hike 

Incredible view of Inti Punku (Sun Gate)  down into Urubamba  river below Machu Picchu

showing section of Inca Trail on sheer rock face

view from Inca trail near Machu Picchu down into Urubamba River far below

Machu Picchu Lodge just outside entrance to Machu Picchu grounds

a moment and memory of a lifetime observing legendary Machu Picchu at last 

Sergey nearby enjoying Machu Picchu below

2 playful young llamas in grass area within Machu Picchu gounds

Amazing "Urban sector" of Machu Picchu above central esplanade 

Mother llama and baby in heart of Machu Grounds

Art hiking thru center of Machu Picchu  towards base of Huayna Picchu

view of base of Huayna Picchu at far end of  Machu  Picchu , the Lost City in the sky

end of rail at Aguas Calientes , the wild west little town at base of Machu Picchu
I will divide this  trip into 3 sections  and  title the next or 2nd part  "Quito/high Amazon jungle" and then 3rd part  "Galapagos/Guayaquil" separately.   The final day of the trip allowed a day in Lima after the morning flight, so we toured Lima, the downtown, markets and cathedral , street scenes  etc.  so I have included the Lima pictures here from the trip final day and night in Lima.  Lima is a huge city of about 4 million on the Pacific and not an attractive city. Then a taxi ride to the modern Lima airport and the long ride back to NYC, Chicago and Anchorage, and the adventure trip was concluded.
Lima cathedral near city center

Lima main plaza in city center

Lima Royal Palace

Lima and huge main cathedral

Lima and river park near city center

Lima and park at river bank near city center

Lima's river edge park near city center

Lima's scenic old covered central market 


Lima near city center and street scene